What to expect on milling day

  1. Be Efficient and Proactive: Milling day is a team effort. Staying organized and helping with tasks keeps the process smooth and productive.

  2. Learn the Workflow: We will establish a clear workflow at the start. Follow instructions and adapt as needed to keep things moving.

  3. Safety First: Milling involves heavy machinery and hard work. Keep the area tidy to prevent accidents, and always be mindful of your surroundings.

  4. Manage the Work Area: Stack waste and freshly cut lumber close to the mill to minimize unnecessary movement and maximize efficiency.

  5. Understand Hand Signals: The sawmill is loud, so I will go over basic hand signals to communicate during the process. Stay attentive and watch the operator for these signals.

  6. Assist with the Process: Help by preparing the next log for milling, pulling boards quickly, and organizing the finished lumber.

By working together and staying focused, we can ensure a safe and successful milling day!

Preparing for Milling Day

  • While not required, having equipment like a tractor or skid steer can greatly speed up the process of moving logs and lumber.

  • Logs should be staged near the milling area and stacked off the ground to minimize dirt and moisture. Make sure there is space for equipment to move freely around the logs.

  • No, logs do not need to be debarked, but removing dirt, rocks, and debris from the bark helps protect the sawmill blades and ensures a cleaner cut. It is also helpful to be aware of any potential metal in the logs.

  • The site should be flat, clear of debris and obstacles, and large enough to maneuver and set up the 25ft trailer and truck to the logs.

  • Basic protective gear for working around the sawmill includes safety glasses, hearing protection and sturdy footwear.
    Good work gloves and long pants are also strongly recommended.

  • Yes, we can cut to your desired dimensions within the capacity of the mill. Let us know your specifications before we start.

    If you do not have specific criteria, I am happy to help you decide what will be most useful to you or how to generally maximize the value and usefulness of the yield from your logs.

  • Milling produces a significant amount of sawdust and slab wood. You are responsible for managing the waste. Plan to have a disposal method or a designated area for piling the waste.

  • The time required depends on the number of logs, their size, and your desired cuts. On average, we can mill 300-500 board feet per hour with an efficient setup.

All About Logs and Lumber

  • I can mill most hardwood and softwood logs. Logs should be straight and at least 8 feet long, with a minimum diameter of 12 inches. Logs that are crooked, too short, or have excessive rot may not be suitable for milling.

  • An ideal “saw log” should be straight over its length, with no primary branches over the length, minimal taper, and free of obvious defects (rot, checking, etc.)

    While some of these defects may not make a log “unsuitable for milling” it will affect the quality and volume of lumber yield per log. What looks like a slight curve or small knot hole can and often does result in a significant loss in lumber yield per log, and primary branches affect the wood grain through most of the log and will compromise the strength and usefulness of the lumber, including excessive twisting and checking as the lumber dries.

  • It is BEST to mill logs within a few weeks of felling them. Insects and fungal growth get to logs much faster than you think they will.
    Many customers seem to believe that if the logs have been down for a few months it makes them start to dry. They are not dry. In log form they will stay wet until they rot, even with the bark removed.

    WHAT YOU SHOULD DO:
    When the logs are felled, call a sawyer and get them milled within a few weeks. If the logs must sit for a month or more, paint the ends with some leftover latex paint or something similar (this will help reduce checking a bit) and stack the logs in a way that they are up off the ground.

    WHAT IF MY LOGS HAVE ALREADY BEEN SITTING FOR A FEW MONTHS?
    Pine logs will have significant insect infestation and you will lose in excess of 4” off the diameter of your logs in waste. For hardwoods, the sapwood will be significantly deteriorated, but the heartwood may still be sound. If your logs were over 18” in diameter they are probably still worth milling. If they are smaller than that your lumber yield may not be worth the effort.

    I work for you, I will mill whatever you want to hire me to mill for you, but I do want to steer you in the right direction and make sure you’re investing wisely.

  • The amount of lumber a log can produce depends on its dimensions, quality, and species. The Doyle Log Rule is commonly used to estimate board footage.

  • The Doyle Log Rule is a formula used to estimate the volume of usable lumber in a log measured in board-feet, based on its diameter and length. While it’s not exact, it provides a helpful guideline.

  • A board foot is a measurement of lumber volume equivalent to a piece 12 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. To calculate board footage, multiply length (in feet) × width (in inches) × thickness (in inches), and divide by 144.

  • My mill can handle logs up to 40 inches in diameter* and 21 feet in length. Logs less than 12 inches or shorter than 6 feet are too small to mill.

    The LT15 rental mill will cut logs up to 28 inches in diameter* and 17 feet in length.

    *Note that true max cutting throat is ~33” for the LT50 and ~20” for the LT15.

  • Yes, if you have only a few logs and the means to transport them, you can bring logs to me if prearranged. Contact me for details and availability.


    If you have more that a handful of logs it will usually be more better for everyone for me to bring the portable mill to your site for milling.

  • No, I do not provide log transportation services. You will need to arrange transportation yourself.

  • The lumber markets are always changing. I maybe willing to buy walnut, white oak, or other domestic hardwoods, but primarily my focus is on portable milling services.

  • In vary rare cases I may be open to a barter system, but typically unless you have spectacular quality stock I will not be interested in a trade.

  • Freshly milled lumber should be stacked with spacers (stickers) between each layer to allow airflow. Store it in a dry, shaded area to reduce the risk of warping and decay.

  • Typically no, but I do operate 3 kilns in Durham, NC. If there is an urgent desire for your lumber to be dried feel free to ask and we can see what can be arranged. The charge for kiln drying or custom work is based on size and scope of the order.

  • The rule of thumb is to air dry for 1 year per inch of thickness. This will dry your lumber to approximately 13-15% MC in NC based on ambient humidity. for most purposes this is dry enough to use for typical building projects.

    Some projects can be built with “green lumber.” That is, lumber that is more or less “fresh” or above 20% MC.

    There are too many opinions on “the appropriate moisture content for xyz project.” so I would encourage you to do your own research for your project and get a simple moisture meter so you can measure and understand wood stability for yourself.